Saturday, August 30, 2008
Writing: Building a Website
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Flying: Ich bin ein Beijinger
I was ready for Beijing. I packed my bag with everything I’d need for the short, 28-hour layover I was going to have.
Camera, check.
Crew ID, check.
Camera batteries, check.
Flashlight, check.
Camera, check.
I really wanted to have my camera in China. It’s a once in ten lifetime opportunity, to be in that close of proximity to the Olympics in a Communist Country that is trying to build its image as a world super power as opposed to an evil world super power.
“Good Morning Ladies and Gentlemen,” the captain said over the PA shortly after takeoff. “Welcome to flight 897. My name is Captain Nick and we’re glad to have you on board for this thirteen-hour flight to Beijing in the People’s Republic of China. Our flight today is going to take us North over Buffalo New York, up through the northern part of Canada coming back down through Russian Siberia and then into China. If there is anything we can do up here don’t hesitate to let us know.”
The plane going over was mostly empty. We only had 95 passengers in the economy section where I worked which comes out to about 37% full. Business class had a similar load and only first was full but that was with deadheading flight attendants who were being positioned for Press Charter flights to New York and Chicago.
There are different types of tired on flights. It’s obviously tiring to work on a full plane for 13 hours but it can be just as wearing in a different way when the plane is empty. It’s boring. We have to stay awake but with nothing to do. I ended up drinking obscene amounts of coffee and eating an equally obscene amount of airplane food that made my stomach feel less than calm. Combined with the peaks and crashes from caffeine, it was a difficult flight.
Six hours into the flight I decided to pull out my camera (check, still had it) and make sure I had enough space left on the memory card for the amount of pictures I wanted to take. I turned it on and it read “No Data.” That was strange because I remember downloading the Brussels Pictures onto my computer but I didn’t remember clearing them off of the memory card. In fact, I was sure I hadn’t cleared them off the memory card. I was right. All of the Brussels pictures were still on the memory card, which was safely plugged into the card reader in my apartment, 5000 miles away, and 2 miles below the airplane.
The built in memory of my camera can hold 15 pictures and I have no idea how to get them off of it, having lost the cord that connects the camera directly to the computer. Not cool. There was nothing I could do about it. But still, I was going to China and I would still know I’d seen whatever it was I was going to see.
Unfortunately, you can’t.
The plane landed in Beijing at around 2 pm local time, a 12-hour time difference placing it almost exactly on the other side of the world.
After spending twenty minutes in customs trying to get the paperwork for the entire crew in order I passed though the gate and was officially in my first communist country. I was slightly irritated, though not surprised, to discover that China is the only country that rivals the United States in irritating customs practices. We cleared one at a time, having our pictures scanned, our visas checked and double checked, and our passports stamped. Then we walked out into the airport to wait for the rest of our crew. There was an American girl sitting at a table on the other side of the customs hall, with a Chinese customs guard and a translator. She smiled at us half-heartedly as we gathered in front of her, one at a time.
“ Hey guys,” she said. Her voice was measured, cracking slightly at the end. “Where are you coming from?”
“D.C.,” I said. “How ‘bout you?”
“Chicago,” she said. Her eyes were puffy and red, we had interrupted her crying.
“What’s going on,” one of my flying partners asked. “What’s with the escort?”
“My visa is expired,” she said. “By fifteen days, I didn’t even notice until they pulled me out of line and pointed it out.”
Having an expired visa isn’t something that many people let happen. It wasn’t her fault entirely, although I can’t imagine being so careless (coming from the man who left his camera’s memory card behind). Customer Service agents are required to check everyone’s visa before they get on the plane. The company will be getting a healthy fine for letting her board with an expired visa. But it’s China. There have been dozens of news stories lately about people being denied visas because of their activist work in certain organizations that are suspected of being sympathetic to Taiwan. If they’re that picky about whom they give visas to it’s crazy to assume they won’t check it when you get there.
She was hoping to get it renewed in the airport because apparently someone had told her that was a possibility. If she were important enough I suppose it may have been, but judging by the fact that she was sitting alone with two Chinese escorts, I didn’t think she fell into that category. She was going back to the states on the first flight out, no matter where it was going. The Chinese don’t mess around with visas. They’re just as strict as the Americans.
I had grand plans for that first night in Beijing. It was the night of the closing ceremonies and the fireworks show that was planned was supposed to rival the show from the opening ceremonies. When we got to the hotel, I was pretty much abandoned by the crew. It’s not that they didn’t like me, I don’t think. But they flew together a lot and were a bit cliquey with each other. They made dinner plans that didn’t include me and stuck to them.
I tried to go out on my own. I’ve done some bold things in my life but trying to find my way to the Olympic stadium on my own in the most over populated city in communist China was too overwhelming even for me. I decided that my best course of action was to take a nap and wake up in time to watch the ceremonies on TV.
I lay down on my bed and closed my eyes. It was just going to be a two-hour nap. That’s all I needed. Just two, maybe three hours. I woke up five hours later to the erupting fireworks all over the city. It was too smoggy out side to see them properly so I figured I’d catch the reruns later. I went back to bed and slept right through to five o’clock in the morning the next day.
I was scheduled to get picked up at 4:15 that afternoon, meaning I had to be back in my room by at least 2 to get packed, showered, and check my e-mail before I left. So by 7:15, after watching Chinese News broadcast in English, (which, by the way focuses on very different topics than the American Election or Global Warming) I headed down to the front desk to ask how to get anywhere.
I had two options. First I could wait an hour and fifteen minutes for the hotel shuttle that would take me to the pearl market. Second, he could give me a card with the name of some tourist attractions and places of historical interest in Mandarin for a Taxi Driver and English for me. I took the card and asked how much it would be to get to Tiananmen Square.
“About 50 RNB” he told me. That comes out to 7.35 USD. After hailing a cab on the congested street outside the hotel, and driving for a half an hour through significant traffic, I was dropped off outside of Tiananmen Square at 8:45 am. 49 RNB. Not a bad guess by the front desk.
Beijing is a living city, not one given to sacrificing progress for the sake of preserving history. However, it’s also a culture in which history is everything. The Government has a tricky job balancing the two. Even a communist country needs the support of the people to get anything done, and especially to get things done at the pace the Chinese do. To sell a vision to 1.3 billion people tell them it’s their legacy on the line. “Don’t you wish to be remembered as favorably as the generation who built the magnificent Forbidden City, or the Tiananmen?” (Tiananmen translates to “Gate of Heavenly Peace” according to Wikipedia. They had a translation on a plaque outside the gate too, but I didn’t write it down then). But all around this history the city is crawling with Skyscrapers and architecture to rival any American city.


There is always the contrast when I travel of the old and the new that we seem to be lacking in the states. It’s not that we don’t have contrast but our contrast tends to be between a hundred year old building and a new one. In China, the difference is between the Tiananmen, built in 1420 AD and the CCTV Headquarters building, scheduled to be completed by December.
I snapped my 15 pictures in about an hour using all the memory space built into my camera and took a taxi back. I thought that was all of Chinese Culture I was going to see during my first visit. I was wrong.
I got back around 10 am, and took my laptop down to Starbucks to buy a 18 RNB ($2.64) grande coffee and enjoy the free wireless. I checked my e-mail and wrote a couple of my own and then decided to double check the flight before I went back up to my room to pack and get ready. As soon as I pulled up my trip information I realized that it looked different. Departure was now scheduled for 08:30 instead of 18:00. There was only a moment of panic before I realized that the date had also changed. I now had an extra night in China. I was a little confused but I headed back towards my room to drop my computer. I was going to take advantage of it, even if the company hadn’t bothered to inform me of the change.
I was entering the hotel Lobby when I saw a flight attendant who had deadheaded out. I had flown with him a few times before. His name is Baron Von Transfer (His name is actually Baron von Hawse but he goes by von Transfer because he’s been based in San Francisco, New York, Chicago, Honolulu, London, Narita, Japan, and currently flying from D.C.).
“Hey, they stole your plane,” he told me.
“They what?”
“They stole your plane for a charter. You aren’t leaving until tomorrow.”
“I just saw that,” I said.
“Well what are you doing now?” he asked.
“I don’t know. Going out again I guess.”
“Well I’m meeting up with Brian,” he said. “We’re going to the markets. Want to tag along?”
“Yes,” I said without hesitation. I’d been dying to be invited out since I got there. “Do I have time to drop my computer off in my room?”
“Yeah, yeah,” he said. “Meet us outside the Starbucks in like five minutes.”
I hustled back up to my room and plugged my computer back in ($30 world wide power adapter from duty free, one of the best investments I’ve made) and practically skipped back downstairs to the Coffee Shop.
We jumped in a cab and pointed to the Silk Market on the little card that the Concierge had given me.
“Market? Ok,” the drive said.
We got to the market, which was a five-story warehouse looking building by the Chinese World Trade Center.
“It’s not good to shop on an empty stomach,” Baron said when we got there. “You guys want to get some food first. I know a good Thai place around the corner.”
We agreed and walked two minutes around the block to the Thai buffet. The food was good at first. I loaded my plate with Red Curry Chicken, Chili beef, and a strange seafood salad. There were chopsticks and a fork and knife set next to the plate. I picked up the chopsticks. When in China… I though.
“You know Thai food is really eaten with a fork,” Baron said. “I’m not criticizing your method of eating,” he followed up quickly. “Just letting you know. The British colonized Thailand. It’s one of the only Asian countries that doesn’t use chop sticks.”
I like interesting tidbits of history like that. I also like eating fast so I traded my chopsticks for a fork and dug in. I had finished the chicken and beef and was half way through my salad. I took a bite and something crunched. I’m not usually picky about my food with the exception of raw tomatoes but I was curious so I pulled the crunchy morsel out of my mouth and looked at it. It looked back at me with eyes dangling off broken tentacles.
“Crawfish,” Baron said matter-of-factly and kept eating.
Brian picked one up with his chopsticks and made it crawl across the table towards Baron. “Help me,” he said in a high falsetto, crawfish voice. Baron snorted so hard that his chicken almost came out of his nose.
The market is five floors of small stands specializing in one or two types of goods. The first floor is mostly clothing, the second is shoes and leather goods, the third is sportswear, the fourth and fifth are jewelry and accessories. Bargaining is the unofficial State sport of China. There’s an art to it.
There are two key facts to remember. First, the shop keepers won’t walk away from a profit, no mater how small the margin. Second, they’ll whine, cry, threaten, and lie until you bring your price up or walk away. Even if you know that you’re still probably going to get ripped off until you figure out just how to haggle with a Chinaman.
Baron is the gold medalist of Beijing bargaining. He has form, poise, and a perfect technique. He starts by asking what they want for the item. Lets say a pair of board shorts.
“150 RNB,” they say. That’s about $22. If the shorts were real, it would be about $13 less than in the states.
“150?” he’d ask in disgust. “Don’t play games with me. I’ll give you 30.”
“30?!” they say looking shocked. “You want steal food from my family’s table? I like you so I give you special deal. One time only. 130. Final offer.”
He’d laugh. It’s a game and they both know it. Baron knows he’s going to pay more than 30 and the shop keeper knows he’s going to get less than 130. They’re both going to seem inflexible.
Baron examines the shorts more closely, looking for bad stitches, Velcro that doesn’t stick, or any other reason to not buy the shorts. He can’t find any, they’re pretty good quality. By this time he’s come up to 35 and the new final offer from the shopkeeper is 100 RNB.
For the next minute Baron will insist on his price of 35. He’s not moving. The shopkeeper has gone to 90 but it isn’t sticking. He’s getting frustrated. He looks distraught. At that point, if I were interested in the shorts I would have paid the 90 just to keep the grown man from crying. But not Baron. He’s been there before. He knows what he’s doing.
“Alright,” he says. “I’ll give you 50.”
The haggling is back on. The Shopkeeper is going to try to leak a few more dollars out of Baron but he’s heard a price he can do.
“I do 80,” he says.
At this point Baron knows he has him so he turns around and starts to walk away. “I said 50,” he calls over his shoulder. The man stays put to make sure Baron isn’t faking it then runs out and grabs him by the arm.
“Ok, 50,” he says. “Don’t tell. I starve if I give too many away like you. 50. My baby starve. 50 RNB.”
Baron takes out his money and after the exchange, they shake hands and both are smiling. It’s just a game. Everyone is happy.
After the shopping is done, about three hours of this show where Baron does the bargaining for all three of us, we jump back into a cab and head back to the hotel.
It’s about 5:00 when we get back. Brian and I make plans to meet for dinner at the Red Door Restaurant across the street at 6:30. We eat dinner, have a drink, and then both of us are dead and we go back to our rooms. I remember lying down in my bed and setting my alarm and don’t remember anything else until it woke me up at 5:15 the next morning.
By 7:30 that morning we’re on the airplane, safety checks done and ready to load the passengers and head back to DC. There are about 30 Olympians onboard, heading to Dulles Airport to make connections home. Half of them have medals, all of them were happy to be there for the experience and even happier to be going home. The athletes aren’t hard to spot; several of them were very recognizable since I’d been watching them on TV for the past three weeks. Men’s and women’s Diving, Men’s Water Polo, woman’s track and field (the shot put girls were bigger than me), Men’s and Woman’s Rowing, and a swimmer (Michael Phelps was booked on our flight but the Olympic committee hauled him off to London to promote the 2012 games). All of them were happy to talk to us about the games.
Any athlete that wins a medal is happy to show it off and be congratulated on it. The flight attendants in the aft galley, myself included, were happy to be shown off to and do the congratulating. It’s strange how patriotic and proud a chunk of gold can make you. I don’t usually consider myself to be emotional about things like that, but all of a sudden, with the men’s diving bronze and woman’s rowing gold medals around my neck, I was. They didn’t let me keep them but they did give me a Team USA rowing Pin. It’s on my work vest. I think I’ll leave it there for a while.

